The stained glass window of St Kew’s church, with a tamed bear at the saint’s feet, is temporarily out of sight, penned in by a jumble of scaffolding. On a chilly hilltop a few miles to the south, St Mabyn’s tower features weathered carvings of heraldic beasts, including a muzzled bear pointing its snout northwards; inside, bears feature on crests of the Prideaux, Barratt and Godolphin families. Midwinter, when Cornwall is relatively free of visitors’ traffic, is a time to visit historic sites and speculate on legends, Arthurian myths and associated early reverence for the pole star encircled by the constellation of
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