In tune with the changeable weather, dinners this week have veered between substantial winter casseroles and lighter, more uplifting dishes. A typical dinner was one of a spicy noodle dish glowing red with chilli followed by a pale and gently flavoured panna cotta. A sort of whip-and-kiss effect that followed that of the week’s see-saw between icy mornings and blissful afternoons with the sun on our backs. I used two hits of chilli for the noodles – a thick, brick-red Korean paste in which to toss the strings of noodles hot from their steaming water and then flakes of dried