AWASH FENTALE, AFAR REGION, ETHIOPIA — A semi-desert plain that lies between two rugged mountains has, for about five months, been the epicenter of volcanic activity in Ethiopia’s Afar region. From a distance, it looks serene and peaceful. As you approach, however, you’re met with rifts from the strong land vibrations that occur two to three times every week. Smoke billows from a deep hole beneath the ground. Nearby holes spit out hot mud and water. The water smells like sulfuric acid from a kilometer away. The locals call it “Seganto,” which also means the name of the plant that